When you think of modern Czech gastronomy, Ondřej Slanina is a name that simply cannot be overlooked. In the kitchen of the Chateau St. Havel Restaurant, he proves that tradition can be contemporary, elegant and surprising all at once. What inspires his menus, what does authentic fine dining actually entail, and why does it pay to revisit the flavours of our childhood?
🖊 Ivana Bednářová | archiv Ondřej Slanina
You’ve been cooking for many years now, and audiences also know you from the small screen. Are you still enjoying it?
Still loving it. I film my cooking segments for Czech Television every Saturday, and I must say it’s still very fulfilling. For me, it’s actually a form of relaxation – peace and quiet. I’ve been doing it for twenty years, so it’s a natural part of my life.
You work at both Chateau St. Havel and Ginger & Fred in the Dancing House. How do you split your workload?
These days, I’m more into management than the actual cooking. I have my head chefs with whom I discuss the menus and planned events. It’s a collaboration where we set the direction, but the execution itself is down to them.
Does the setting, such as the manor house atmosphere of Chateau St. Havel, play a role in crafting your menu?
We don’t create anything specific just to fit the venue, yet paradoxically, it always feels like a natural match. Roughly 70% of our guests are Czechs, with foreigners making up the rest, so the menu needs to be straightforward and accessible to everyone.
You’re often linked to the term ‘modern Czech gastronomy’. What does that entail?
To be honest, their buzzwords everyone loves, but hardly anyone can pin down. We aim more for modern cosmopolitan gastronomy. We draw on Czech, Italian, French and Spanish cuisine, sticking to traditional, honest techniques, but we lighten the dishes to suit today’s lifestyle.
What’s your starting point when building a menu?
That’s very simple – people go to a restaurant to have something to eat. I want guests to know exactly what’s coming the moment they look at the menu. To be able to picture it. I don’t want the food to pose as ‘something interesting’ but rather be a proper, delicious meal.
At the same time, I don’t want a guest to feel awkward just because they don’t recognise a name or a side dish. Plenty of people are too shy to ask. We don’t want to make them feel small or put them under pressure. That’s why we keep the menu clear and simple, so everyone feels comfortable and leaves happy – not just with the food, but with the entire experience.
How much do you focus on local sourcing?
I love supporting local suppliers whenever possible, but it isn’t always realistic. For me, quality and provenance are key – ideally, I don’t want ingredients travelling halfway across the globe.
With meat, however, it’s trickier. Take beef, for example – most production today comes from South America. Smaller restaurants can afford local suppliers, but larger establishments simply can’t cover the volumes. If you see ‘Czech beef’ on a menu somewhere, it’s often just marketing. In reality, you’d need dozens of cows a month just for the beef tenderloin, which local farmers simply can’t deliver.
We’re sitting on the terrace of Ginger & Fred, on the 7th floor of the Dancing House with this stunning view. How long have you been here?
I’ve been here since around the pandemic, so about six years. The owners approached me to help out. I like it here. The restaurant has been running for over thirty years and the place has its own magic.
And which is closer to your heart – the Dancing House or Chateau St. Havel?
Heart-wise, probably Chateau, mainly because I’ve been there from the beginning and it was literally built from scratch. Plus, I prefer being outside the city centre – I like the manor house style and the leisure options.
On the other hand, the Dancing House is an icon, unique even beyond Prague, and I’m glad we can be part of it.
What dish reliably takes you back to your childhood?
Every Friday as a kid, I’d take the bus from Florenc to see my grandparents in the highlands. There’d always be crêpes with curd cheese or strawberry curd-dough dumplings waiting for me – fluffy, with breadcrumbs, sugar and melted butter. If I see them on a menu, I’ll have them. It’s a total trip back to childhood.
Do you still have a professional dream or a major goal?
Not really. For me, the most important thing is that both customers and staff are happy. That people enjoy the food and that everything runs as it should.
When people do their jobs with love, you see it in the results. And that, for me, is the ultimate goal.
