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Memories of Africa

It took me a while to sort through my emotions after visiting Kenya. I was captivated not only by the nature, but above all by the people who gave me shelter while I explored the beauty of this land. Each of us should step out of our comfort zone from time to time and set out on an “adventure.” This year, I managed to do just that, and I’m truly grateful for it. You come to realize that drinking water from the tap, light, and warmth are great luxuries—and we should truly appreciate them.

Kenya – One of the World’s Most Breathtaking Destinations Just crossing its borders means helping local communities that strive to live in harmony with the wild. 

During my journey, I visited Tsavo National Park, the shores of the Indian Ocean north of Mombasa, and the Masai Mara Reserve. We were hosted by the amazing people behind the SECLUDEDAFRICA project.

They have built stunning lodges in the heart of untouched nature and proudly live up to their name—“secluded Africa.” These are people who dedicate every dollar from entrance fees to their private reserve to support local communities, children’s education, job opportunities, and access to drinking water. They teach the local communities how to coexist with wildlife and are behind a fund that protects rangers. Each year, dozens of rangers lose their lives. These men and women risk everything to protect not only the animals, but also the future of our planet.

While visitors admire the incredible wilderness, behind the scenes there is a relentless battle against poachers and the illegal trade in ivory and rhino horn. Poaching remains one of the biggest challenges Kenya faces. Ivory is still one of the most coveted materials in the world. Why? Elephant tusks are prized for their beauty, durability, and ease of carving. In some cultures, ivory symbolizes wealth and power; in others, it is used to craft jewelry, artworks, or even traditional medicines. Despite international bans on the ivory trade, demand remains high—putting enormous pressure on elephants not only in Kenya, but across the entire African continent.

Another tragedy is the hunt for rhinos due to their horns, which are worth more than gold on the black market. The myth of the horn’s healing properties, especially in some Asian countries, has led to their mass slaughter. Kenya became the scene of one of the most heartbreaking stories in the history of wildlife – the extinction of the northern white rhinoceros. Scientists are trying to save the species, but the outcome remains uncertain. I sincerely hope they succeed. Rhinos are magnificent creatures.

Despite these challenges, Kenya remains a place of indescribable beauty. If you want to experience the real Kenya, don’t miss Tsavo National Park and its hidden gem – Kipalo Hills. In the language of the Taita people, one of the local tribes, “kipalo” means “a place you return to again and again.” And it’s true – Kipalo Hills completely captivated me, not with luxury, but with authenticity. The breathtaking views over endless plains, elephants at the watering holes, and flocks of birds flying overhead – you have to see it for yourself. They say Kilimanjaro is visible from there, though I wasn’t lucky enough to see it. No matter – maybe next time. I would love to return to “my” tent, which offered a stunning view of the sunset and a night sky full of stars, untouched by light pollution. The safari itself was the cherry on top: herds of elephants, zebras, giraffes and antelopes, a generous picnic under the open sky, and a glass of good wine. It was a perfect start to a journey that continued toward the Indian Ocean.

Another big surprise for me was the train ride — first from Nairobi to Voi, and then onward to the coast. I truly didn’t expect such a high standard of service, cleanliness, and especially punctuality. What impressed me even more was the check-in process. I’m used to having my luggage scanned multiple times at airports, but to have it inspected by a handler with a Malinois dog? That was definitely a unique experience. Safety comes first. I really enjoy traveling by train — it’s comfortable and the views are often wonderful. Kenya was no different. Where else can you casually spot elephants, zebras, boys playing football, and herds of cattle and sheep — all in one place? A strange kind of harmony. At times, the tracks ran parallel to the old railway line, which became infamous in the 19th century for the gruesome tale of man-eating lions attacking workers during the construction of a bridge over the Tsavo River. The engineer John Patterson stood up to them and later wrote a book about the ordeal, which inspired the film The Ghost and the Darkness.

From Tsavo, I made my way to the coast to my new refuge: Cardamon House. A small, stylish boutique hotel on Kuruwitu Beach, built in traditional Swahili style, full of cozy corners perfect for retreating and relaxing. Every room offers a stunning view of the ocean, and the sunsets on the beach? Simply breathtaking.In Africa, women often don’t have many employment opportunities, so I was pleasantly surprised to see an all-female kitchen staff here. The food was truly delicious — unique combinations using local ingredients, which I always appreciate. A bit of seaside rest was just what I needed, since a demanding schedule awaited me in the Masai Mara.

I was really looking forward to the journey to Mara — we were flying over national parks with a view of Kilimanjaro. The skies were clear, and the mountain revealed itself in all its glory. It’s truly majestic. Hard to believe it reaches an impressive 5,895 meters, but the snowcapped peaks speak for themselves. From above, you can see Kenya’s diversity — dry plains, wetlands, mountains, rivers, lakes, and farmland — all beautifully arranged. It really is an awe-inspiring country.

On the way from the airport to our final destination, we came across a massive herd of elephants and even a lion family. The dominant lioness was a real “model” — they said it’s rare to see such a stunning specimen. And so, Mara began to reveal her magic to me. Instinct of the Mara is located in a remote part of the Olderkesi Conservancy, which borders both the Masai Mara and the Serengeti — far from the crowded tourist trails. The greatest attraction of this region is undoubtedly the great wildebeest migration, which can be witnessed from late July through September. The lodge is truly stylish — in the library you’ll find books by Wilbur Smith, there’s a bar with leather armchairs, and a fire pit lounge overlooking the bush. I believe Hemingway would have fallen in love with this place. It’s the perfect spot for writing.Sleeping in a tent is a different experience — I’m more alert, I hear baboons, zebras, elephants, and other “surprises” around me, sharpening my senses. A full-day safari in the Mara awaits, but sleep comes slowly. I wake up tired, but excited. We’re headed to the Mara River, with breakfast and lunch in the bush, and a full 12 hours of wildlife observation. It turned out to be an incredible day. I saw herds of buffalo, elephants, hippos, giraffes, zebras, countless species of antelope and birds. A hyena and some jackals even made an appearance. We also witnessed lions mating — nature is so beautiful. After returning to the lodge, I was exhausted, but happy. My journey home was about to begin.

I definitely want to return and share the magic of Kenya and Africa with my family, friends, and clients. It’s a place that opens your eyes, touches your heart, and leaves you with a longing to discover more. It’s a country that teaches you humility, appreciation for nature, and the beauty of life. And how important it is to help. Because Kenya isn’t just about breathtaking views and wild animals — it’s about human lives. My deepest wish is that we succeed in protecting this beauty for future generations — so they won’t have to visit animals only in zoos, but also in the wild. I truly believe that by traveling to these countries, we’re helping preserve this magical part of the world.

Author: Lada Vágnerová

Photo: archive of Lada Vágnerová

www.monoi.cz

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